Tuesday, May 31, 2011

Against all odds

Typically when rolling the dice on the weather in the Batholith things will usually end in your favor. For the long holiday weekend the forecast had the odds completely loaded toward wet weather- but I was optimistic. Saturday was beautiful and with a trailer and the family in tow everything was looking like it was going to line up. I added a couple new one’s to the area and worked some projects under blue skies. Yah right 70% chance of rain.

My daughter Brielle- pointing out the foot beta

Lowballing Afternoon Delight

Projecting the proud line on The Gharial

Ectoparasite on the Cookiecutter Shark Boulder

With the intent of photographing some of the boulders that I had missed previously I ambled my way down into Pop up Gully. It had been years since I had been on the North side of the gully. I found it quite embarrassing that I had somehow forgotten this whole area- must have been an extra dose of anandamide flowing through my veins.

Day one down- the gamble against the precipitation was going very well.

Charlie and Mojave getting warm by the fire

After a night around the fire- the rains and snow and sleet came and did not let up the whole weekend. When I saw the updated forecast for Sunday and Monday of 100% chance of precip I knew I was beat. Everything was completely soaked but these are the best days to go out and exploring- and explore I did but I am not to let those goodies out of the box until later…

Life in the trailer


Monday, May 23, 2011

A good start to the season

Ladd had a pretty good opening day on Sunday with Tom, Kalah and Bowie; Clay, Tom and Rocky--a few pics and vid follow:


Dad (I) gave him the running beta, as his project became more technical; I'll try and refrain in the future...






Low hands and heels...good form on the slab

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Sequence of myself snagging the FA of "Shit Start" SDS V2/3 (photos by Ladd)

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Great weather and good times out on the stone in the the Lower Isolateds--come on out!!!!1111

Tuesday, May 3, 2011

Golden Age?

This Spring has been spectacular in the Batholith. With many new problems going up and more and more boulders being discovered it is hard to dismiss that a sort of Golden Age has begun. Tom and I (mostly Tom), have started compiling a database of problems, at last count it contained over 800 and we are nowhere near complete. Tom's estimation of 1,200 problems in the Batholith is certainly a legitimate estimation.


Conrad on Japanese Depression

As mentioned in a previous post by Tom- a couple of us were able to escape from work on a Weds a few weeks ago for a midday session with Conrad. Conrad was interested in seeing some of what the Batholith stone looked like for some of the local fabricated boulders. Tome led us on a gem tour, starting with the Isos. This was my first tim in the Isos and I was blown away with the quality of rock. The Upper Isolateds reminded me so much of the Camp 4 boulders at one point I could swear I saw the sacred lightning bolt scrawled on the rock above me. Of course when I would turn around and see the snow covered Highlands and Tobacco Roots and not the dusty campground decor and tourons- relief and confusion would overtake me. Needless to say Conrad was impressed. It was a pretty awesome day all around with a couple new one's going up as well.

This Sunday I found myself out in the Trailers once again working some of the harder projects and picking off some low hanging fruit. The day reminded me of how things used to be out in the Batholith- quiet- awkwardly quiet- like Blair Witch project in Junipers. I am not sure why but this strange silence has always motivated me.


Galatea (very sharp and very sweet)

After completely trashing my fingers- count them four split tips- I heard talking in the distance. These had to be ATVers. Who else could be out here? Was there a wreck? Then I saw someone walk briskly through the trees about 50 feet from me. Was she lost? How she did not see or hear me I still have no clue. This was unexpected. I had to know what was up. Turns out a group was warming up at the Snooter and 7 Gram. I knew no one, nor did I recognize any of them.

The Golden Age is on my friends. History teaches us when you find gold or even if you think you have found gold others will follow. I have also heard that climbers and surfers can be some of the most territorial beings on the planet. Just ask Bodhi and Johnny- (watching the video is mandatory).


But I am not worried about feuds going on, there are more than enough problems and boulders out in the Batholith to go around that is for certain. What I do fear that this all is lost in the Juniper maze before it is recorded.

Remember this...
There are few things where complete solitude and community can be intertwined into one experience- bouldering- maybe the perfect blend.